Blog Archive for Apr 2014

Arriving in Indonesia

Indonesia.   Java.   Southern Hemisphere.   This is where we were flying, to names and words and sounds that have been exotic my whole life yet too far out of reach. To that list, add t

Indonesian Impressions

You never know.   You never know what awaits you when you drop into a new country. India assaulted us with its toxins in the air and the bedlam of the streets. Hanoi met us with the straight gray

Java and baseball

  Picture this: I am on the porch outside our hotel room at 7am here in Java, reclining on a sofa and sipping coffee that was grown not too far from here. The vines are thick off the porch and th

Ubud, Bali

Day 1 on Bali:   It’s morning on the roof of our guest house, and I needed to come up here to get a chiropractic correction on my attitude. It’s spectacular in all directions: a pair of volca

Bicycling Bali

Yesterday was one of the most spectacular days of the entire trip—and that’s no hyperbole.   We signed up for a bicycle tour of Bali that would start with a drive to an overlook of one of the

A walk in Bali

Yesterday we lingered in Ubud so Liam could spend more time with his new friends that we’d met a day earlier on a bicycle ride. One of the boys, Xuan, is Liam’s age and mentality and boisterousnes

Ubud Abundance

“I have rice in-between my toes.”   Not a sentence I find myself uttering frequently. But Ubud, Bali has me saying things I don’t normally have a context for. Like, “I just sunk in the ri

Wandering in Bali

We left Ubud around noon in a taxi bound for the east coast of Bali, to an area called Amed that many had recommended to us. We weren’t sure about it. That is, we weren’t sure if we should head no

Life on Gili Air

There are three small islands called the Gilis off the coast of Lombok, which lies to the east of Bali. Everyone goes to Bali, many go to Lombok, fewer go to the Gilis, and the fewest go to Gili Air,

Land of the Lotus Eaters

    It’s 6am on the beach at Gili Air, an island on the equator to the east of Bali. The sun is rising across the short span of sea to Lombok, the major island in these parts. Gili Air is

Wrapping up Gili Air

Once again I’m out here on the beach for sunrise. The volcanoes of Lombok to the east across this short expanse of sea are entirely clear of clouds, though further east to exotic-sounding islands li

A volcano on Lombok

We left our bungalow on Gili Air by horse cart. The three of us and our bags squeezed into the wooden cart, our weight tilting the rear of the cart until it nearly touched the sand path. The horse str

Rounding the Bend

We’re enjoying a couple of down days in Senggigi, a beach town on the west coast of Lombok, one of the 17,000 islands that comprise Indonesia. The town itself is ragged and edgy, with the constant a


Once again, it’s not what we expected.   These are our last days in Indonesia, and for that matter, the last days of our trip in developing countries. Next week is Australia, which might as wel

Real life in Kuta

Great scene in front of me on this Sunday morning in April on the southern tip of Lombok. It’s 7am, and the street right off the platform of this restaurant is full of Indonesians either setting up


  Can we all agree on that—that men are the odd gender, full of strange preoccupations and made to destroy.   Case in point: Last night across from our little restaurant here in Kuta, ther

Heads or Tails: The 2 Sides to the Gili Islands

Ah, Gili Air. We chose this island because the “guide books” (In quotes because we have come to view Lonely Planet and other travel books as advertisements for places rather than realistic represe

Wrapping up Indonesia

Speed Blog: Good-Bye Indonesia   Dolora: Leaving Indonesia tomorrow isn’t just about leaving Indonesia; it’s about leaving developing countries after living in them for 6 months; it’s about

Goodbye, Indo

Just a quick final blog before we board our flight for Perth in a few minutes.   Our final hour in Indonesia was perfect, as if choreographed just for our benefit. The man who amused us all morni