• Babies get the Kohl underliner treatment, mostly boys
    Babies get the Kohl underliner treatment, mostly boys
  • Ride em camelboy!
    Ride em camelboy!
  • The camel drivers put metal studs through the nostrils for a bridle. I no likey.
    The camel drivers put metal studs through the nostrils for a bridle. I no likey.
  • Ganesha on the rooftop of our home away from home for a week
    Ganesha on the rooftop of our home away from home for a week
  • Fancy uniforms for the patrol
    Fancy uniforms for the patrol
  • This looks less crowded than it was. Colors and people in the streets
    This looks less crowded than it was. Colors and people in the streets
  • Good morning birthday boy
    Good morning birthday boy
  • You will all be getting marigold leis next summer!
    You will all be getting marigold leis next summer!
  • Marigold lei making with new friends
    Marigold lei making with new friends

Entries from Jaipur, India

blog

24 Days in India

    I wish 3 weeks in Hanalei, Kauai could feel as long as these three weeks in India. Something happened yesterday. I felt good. I realized I have not felt well since we landed in Jaipur on

blog

Enough?

That was dangerous.   No, I’m not talking about another suicidal drive this morning from Rishikesh that began at 4am. Nor am I talking about that curd, or that toilet seat, or that dog’s neck

blog

The Mother Ganga

We non-locals say Gone-jeez or Gan-jeez when referring to the holiest river in the world. Indians say Mother Ganga (gong-gah). We are in Rishikesh, a place that the rest of the world might know becaus

galleries

Ganges, cricket, yoga

blog

Rafting the Ganges

What day is it today? I’d have to think about that.   ++++++   Let’s talk cricket.   Cricket is a sport for a country with a lot of land, a lot of leisure time, a lot of lawns. In o

galleries

Agra to Rishikesh

Here are images from our 11-hour drive from Agra to Rishikesh, and then some early photos of our first day in Rishikesh, including our plunge into the Ganges River that is, miracle of miracles, clean

blog

Settling into Rishikesh

I awoke this morning before 7am here in Rishikesh. I lay in bed listening to the rarest of sounds in India—the sound of nature. The wind is blowing through the trees, the Ganges is flowing across ro

galleries

Taj Mahal

blog

Ahh, India

We ran into Will today here in Rishikesh. Will’s a British guy who slept on the terrace of the Paramount Hotel in Pushkar. The last we saw him, he was leaving to take an overnight sleeper bus from P

blog

The Taj

I’ll get to the Taj Mahal in a minute. In that paragraph I’ll use words like “transcendent” and “inspirational”; I’ll probably talk about its symmetry and beauty and lightness, about it

blog

Wonder of the World

(Note: Pictures coming tomorrow. We’re exhausted after an 11-hour drive from Agra to Rishikesh–exhausted and thankful to be alive.)   Yesterday we spent the day at the Taj Mahal. Our

blog

The Romance is Gone

    Jim told me a long time ago that I had a romantic notion of India. Ever since I was little, before I even knew what India was, I was intrigued by India. Maybe I saw a Commander McBragg c

blog

Speed Blog: On a Train to Agra

    Dolora: Looking out the train window, India is what I imagined Africa to look like. Which reminds me of something I said long ago in the Peloponnese of Greece: that a field we were passi

blog

Movie Time

We haven’t posted a movie in a long time, so here’s one that captures our first week in India when we landed in Jaipur. We stayed with a host family and experienced the festival of light,

blog

Movie of Jaipur

For our first week in India we dropped into Jaipur in the northwest corner of the country. We stayed with a host family–Amit, Neelam, and their little boy Nick–to experience the festival o

blog

Speed blog…

Speed Blog: Last Day in Pushkar?   Dolora: I have to admit, the more I learn about Hindu gods and goddesses, the more irreverent I become.   Jim: I went down alone to a ghat this afternoon

blog

The Full Moon

I awoke before sunrise to watch the scene down at the lake. It’s the day of the full moon, November 17th, the day when all the pilgrims who have streamed to Pushkar this week make their push to bath

galleries

More and more Pushkar

We're winding down our week in Pushkar. Today: camel rides, a bath in the sacred lake, lounging around the Paramount Palace, and lots of great faces on the street.

blog

The pilgrimage

  It’s Saturday morning in Pushkar. The pilgrims have increased throughout the week, all culminating in the official full moon at midnight tonight. That’s when the lake will be swarming with bath

blog

Holy Daze

    We have been in Pushkar for some days, 4? 5? I cannot be bothered with a calendar or maybe India time has taken me over. I know it is Thursday, I think. I do know that Liam’s birthday

galleries

Pushkar III

blog

A brief good morning

Liam is sitting across from me this Thursday morning on the rooftop of the Paradise Hotel.   I wrote that sentence an hour ago. During that hour when I should’ve been writing, we’ve been talk

galleries

More Pushkar

The moon is getting full and the Holy days are getting more fervent. Today began with the spiritual walk temple to temple in town. There are 200 temples, the town was resonating with loud chanting all

blog

On the rooftop of Paradise

There were times yesterday while we walked among a thousand camels that it all seemed like a dream, a dusty dream among the men with long moustaches and vibrant turbans and camels upon camels in all d

blog

The Kindness of Strangers

The Kindness of Strangers   Many of the native Indians we have met describe their country as chaotic, a place of paradox and contradiction, a mélange of peoples and religions and beliefs held togeth

galleries

Liam’s birthday

How to replace friends and parties and birthday cake? Marigolds and the kindness of Pushkar strangers!

galleries

Pushkar Faces

Pushkar is tribal. The desert landscapes inform the clothing and skin colors. Here is a peek at some of the faces and moments.

galleries

The Camel Fair

Desert, rough, manly turbaned men come to Pushkar in the state of Rajasthan, the home of Maharajah's and temples, to trade camels and horses. They live in canvas tents, shave their camels in patterns,

galleries

Settling into Pushkar

We moved from our tent accommodations across town to the Paramount Hotel, a grand name for a simple place with a refuge on the rooftop of pillows and chai and travelers from around the world.

blog

Enter: Pushkar

It’s nearly 8am in Pushkar, India. I’m sitting on the terrace that overlooks this city and its 1000 temples, its holy lake in the center of town where pilgrims from around the region are gathering

blog

Pushkar Begins

And then we arrived at Pushkar.   It all began with that phrase, the Pushkar Camel Festival, when we began to plan this monstrosity of a trip about a year ago. I waited until I was granted a year

galleries

Pushkar: First images

We've ventured to Pushkar for the annual Camel Festival. These are the first images of our camel ride into town and the first day of activities.

galleries

Bundi to Pushkar

Images of our bus ride from Bundi and of our tent camp in Pushkar--our home for the first two nights here in the northwest of India.

blog

Leaving Bundi

Yesterday in a rickshaw ride through the town of Bundi in northwest India, I saw on the street a vendor selling his product that was laid out in rows on his burlap sack. The product?   Dentures.

blog

Free Falling

Disclaimer: probably not one to read aloud to children   Free Falling   My mentor Aftab Omer used to tell us in grad school that all worthwhile things require a sacrifice. Malidoma Some, a Dagar

galleries

Bundi

On our second day in the small town of Bundi, we rented a rickshaw for 3 hours and let Maron drive us around the sites of the city.

blog

Bundi, again

I awoke on this Friday morning and walked out onto the terrace here in rural Bundi in hopes of seeing blue sky for the first time in India. Not a lot to ask, is it? But no, not today. The sky is a mil

galleries

On our own: Jaipur to Bundi

We left Amit and Neelum's nest and ventured out on our own. Here are images of our train ride, our rickshaw driver, and our hotel in Bundi.

galleries

FInal Jaipur photos

Images from our tour of Jaipur and a few shots of our host family.

blog

Onward from Jaipur, all on our own

This is good. The place we landed for the next few days is good. In India this is the best we can hope for. After days and days of choking pollution and staggering poverty and the endless tugs at our